135 recipes, painted in Delft blue
Dutch CookbookBlauw & Wit

Aspergesoep (White Asparagus Soup)

Aspergesoep

A silky Limburg soup of white asparagus — the peelings simmered into a sweet stock, then a light cream velouté studded with tender spears and nutmeg.

Aspergesoep (White Asparagus Soup)IVSoups
Prep
25 min
Cook
40 min
Serves
4
Level
Intermediate

For a few weeks each spring the Netherlands loses its head over witte asperge — white asparagus, the pale, blanched spears grown under the sandy soil of Limburg and the south. The season is short and passionately observed, and no dish honours it more gently than aspergesoep, a soup that treats the vegetable as something close to precious.

White gold of the south

Limburg is the heartland. The Catholic south took to asparagus early, and by the eighteenth century, as sugar, coffee and the first printed cookbooks were reshaping the Dutch table, refined cream soups like this one were finding their place at the better tables. White asparagus asks to be handled with care: thickly peeled, poached briefly, and never overwhelmed. The soup is its quietest and most flattering setting.

The secret of asparagus soup is that nothing of the vegetable is wasted — even the peel becomes the broth.

Flavour hides in the peel

The single most important step is the one that looks like tidying up. White asparagus must be peeled thickly, and those peelings, along with the snapped-off ends, hold an astonishing amount of flavour. Simmered with a little sugar and lemon they give a sweet, pale stock that no amount of cream could fake. Build the soup on that, poach the spears only to tenderness, and enrich off the heat so the velouté stays silk.

Season with restraint, brighten with a squeeze of lemon, and serve it while spring is still on the market stalls.

From the kitchen
Never throw away the peelings — simmered into stock they hold most of the asparagus flavour that makes this soup taste of spring.

Ingredients

Serves 4

The stock and asparagus

  • 1 kgwhite asparaguspeeled, peelings kept
  • 1.2 litreswater
  • 1 tspsugar
  • 1 tspsalt
  • 1strip of lemon peel

The velouté

  • 40 gbutter
  • 40 gplain flour
  • 150 mldouble cream
  • 1egg yolkoptional, to enrich
  • 0.25 tspgrated nutmeg

To finish

  • 1 tbspchervil or parsleychopped
  • to tastesalt, pepper and lemon

Method

  1. 1

    Simmer a stock from the peelings

    Peel the asparagus and snap off the woody ends. Simmer the peelings and ends in the water with the sugar, salt and lemon peel for 20 minutes. This turns kitchen scraps into a sweet, deeply asparagus-scented stock — the real base of the soup.

  2. 2

    Poach the spears

    Cut the peeled spears into short lengths, keeping the tips separate. Strain the stock, return it to the pot, and gently poach the spears for 6 to 8 minutes until just tender. Lift them out and reserve; keep the stock hot.

  3. 3

    Build a blond roux

    In a clean pan melt the butter, stir in the flour, and cook two minutes until blond but not coloured. Whisk in the hot asparagus stock a ladle at a time until smooth, then simmer 5 minutes to cook out the flour.

  4. 4

    Enrich off the heat

    Whisk the cream with the egg yolk if using, stir a little hot soup into it to temper, then pour it back off the boil. Do not let it boil again or the yolk will scramble; the soup should thicken silkily and turn glossy.

  5. 5

    Return the asparagus and season

    Slip the poached spears and tips back into the soup to warm through. Season with nutmeg, salt, pepper and a squeeze of lemon to lift the sweetness, and scatter with chervil just before serving.

In the kitchen

The tools that make this recipe easier.

With the soup

A bowl of snert is a meal — but the trimmings make it Dutch.

  • Roggebrood met spekrye bread with a slab of bacon
  • Katenspeksmoked cured bacon on the side
  • Mustarda dab of coarse mustard on the rye
How a Dutch meal is built →

Questions from the kitchen

Why use white asparagus rather than green?+

White asparagus is the Dutch and Limburg tradition, grown blanched under soil and prized in spring. It is sweeter and more delicate than green, and its peelings give a paler, purer stock. Green works, but the character changes.

Can I leave out the egg yolk?+

Yes. The yolk enriches and glosses the soup, but a good blond roux and cream already give plenty of body. If you skip it you can boil more freely, which is simpler.

What is the best time of year to make it?+

Dutch white asparagus, the famous 'white gold', runs roughly from April to the traditional end of the season around 24 June. That short window is when the spears are sweetest and cheapest.